AW24 ELLIPSES

Savvas Alexander's debut collection for Autumn/Winter 2024 explores the imperishable nature of loops, both conceptually and production-wise. The British/Greek designer spent months iterating and exploring state-of-the-art technologies to develop a design mindset that marries beginnings and ends. The result is a range of long-lasting and forward-thinking garments that use colour, texture, and materials to create design bonds that last for generations.

For a young designer to enter the ever-moving, ever-complex fashion industry, it takes courage, something Alexander is well aware of: 'Developing a studio, business and design practice from the ground up is a challenge, and this is the first step, over a year in the making.'

The concept of ellipsis joins the creative equation, as the details left unspoken give agency to the wearer to interpret the non-tangibility of garments, capturing newness that stands the test of time. This approach translates to the collection's short film, ELLIPSES, created by Hani Hooper, which explores circular scenarios across the city, emphasising the symbiotic relationships between the maker and wearer.

The collection's design thinking and making rely on advanced laser technology, with signature perforations embellishing garments with freedom of movement and breathability. All twelve looks comprise blacks and greys that gradually blend into shades of blue. The brand's raison d'être, 'future localism', makes a physical appearance in the label's first headwear piece.

Locally-made garments in London follow a micro-factory-like development process in which new drapes meet existing silhouettes, following a swift, on-demand production. The Aero side of the collection comprises a turtleneck, tee, and dress, with perforations and structured silhouettes inspired by aeroplane wings. The perforated aperture tee acknowledges Savvas Alexander's love for sportswear, featuring high-tech mesh or bonded jersey fabrics, and introduces the Scima neckline, influenced by abstract expressionism.

Meanwhile, the Wrap trousers and skirt, incorporate the brand's multi size lifetime system, orchestrated by magnetic, removable closures. The closures feature throughout the collection to increase function, and in addition, have been reimagined through 3D-printed steel snap covers in collaboration with Adarsh Nellore.

Smart manufacturing continues with the utility Aileron trouser, available in slim and wide fits that showcases intricate shaping down the leg through darts and pleats. The Cocoon coat is set to become a favourite for its oversized, gender-fluid silhouette. The design extends to a jacket and vest offered across various materials, doubling down on the iterative nature of the design studio.

Pops of colour arrive in shades of blue, namely within the azure scarf which features a digital print drawn from the computer aided cutting process. All garments have been designed with a technical and functional approach to luxury in materiality and aim to be mono material for ease of recycling should the garment reach the end of its life.

The brand's foray into accessories emerges with the envelope bag as a core wardrobe piece. Design-wise, it minimises construction by taking advantage of fold-over fabrics and hidden snaps for closure. Akin to the Cocoon coat, the accessory is available in ultrasuede leather and recycled nylon, while the smaller sizes were developed using studio fabric offcuts. On the larger scale, the 2 piece shopper bag, designed in collaboration with Jen Sims, showcases experimentation with proportion and material contrast.

Words, Sofía de la Cruz

Ellipses

Film and Music, Hani Hooper

Director of photography, Peter Butterworth

Assistant, Anna Drust

Cast, Benjamin and Katya